If you are learning to surf in water which requires a wetsuit be sure to hire a wetsuit which will fit you properly. Too big and the wetsuit is going to weigh you down in the water.
Too small and the wetsuit will be too restrictive which will make paddling very difficult. Ideally, the best way to find a proper fitting wetsuit is to buy one yourself. Some people will teach themselves to surf, but the majority will take a surf lesson to start with.
Some instructors teach surfing using a cookie cutter approach. This means that every student receives the same type of instruction. A good instructor will adjust their style of teaching for the type of student they have. The surf instructor is a tremendously important part of the experience of learning to surf.
Your instructor will either impart their knowledge correctly so that you can learn to surf in the shortest time possible.
Moreover, a good surf instructor will be able to instil enough confidence in someone to believe they can learn to surf in the shortest time possible. These are often overlooked when it comes to learning to surf, but in fact are very important. Firstly, you need to make sure you choose the right location to surf to at. I only started 6 months ago age 25 but wanted to surf my whole life, was pretty restricted as a kid so am trying to fast track my learning, I started on a 6"3 super fish, 6 months later im on a sexy little JS Evolution round tail.
Its just you and the heart beat of the earth, that moment when u take the drop nothing else matters your mind is completely free of all material thought processes. Your human. I am 55 and I find I need to excercise regularly on non surfing days but when I was younger I recall that we would stay in the water for hours I drive 1 to 2 hours to the beach every saturday one way.
And I surf for 2 hours, 3 if it's a very good day. At the end of it I'm dead. And either my partner is there or at home, I don't have time for a second session later on. Too many things to do. I should give up too much for a second session. Friends, movies, dinners and all the rest. I just don't have time.
And I believe I'm committed. I wonder how you do it. When I first started few months ago, I would be at the beach for hours. But this is mainly because I was terrible and the waves are tiny so I will manage 1 or 2 wave per hour. The rips is much stronger in winter now so I only surf for around 2 hours grab a light lunch then sleep in the car for hour and carry on surfing again if the condition is good.
There is too many things in life to do, but I pretty much drop all of them now. I was 2 hours late to my friend's wedding this Sunday just because the swell was too good. I had a cold as well but getting into the beach made me feel so much better. I just can't live without going to the beach every weekend now. Even considering moving here permanently and leaving my comfort zone!
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! Looking for a new long, 9,0 or 9,6? How long before you felt like you knew what you were doing? Advice needed from surf chick with long hair! Forum Only Advanced Search. Forum Sponsors. Latest Longboarders Only Should I go for a shorter leash? Time to show off my surf session again. Does this epoxy board need repair?
Newbie needs help to find a new surfboard. This is extremely important. It can determine whether you have the best time of your life, or the worst. This is true, but only to a certain extent. But the truth is, there are some sandy beach breaks for advanced surfers, and some rocky point breaks for beginner surfers.
To make things even more confusing, some spots can be perfect to learn on some days, and on other days only be good for experts. It all depends on the wave conditions. If you want to know if a spot is good for your level, you must not only look up the spot info, but also the daily wave conditions. There are many surf websites and forums loaded with information on surf spots. Our favourite is Surfline. As you can see on the right column, they tell you what type of board you need, adequate surf level, tide, swell, bottom, etc.
Doing some research on the web is always good. But the best thing is to have knowledgeable and experienced surfers that have been surfing the area for a long time. They are the ones who can really tell you where to go according to your surf level.
As seen on point 1, surfing is one of the most complex and technical sports in the world. Trust us, this advice comes from inland surfers that started to dedicate their life to surf way too late in their life.
Have an experienced friend or surf coach show you the right basics for the first few days. It may sound like Chinese when you are new to the sport. Bellow are the top 3 things you should focus on. If you want to know more, watch our Surf Etiquette video for the Top 9 Rules you need to know. The drop in is the main violation of surf ethics.
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