The easier regular maintenance is, the more likely it will get done. Thankfully on the Polaris and unlike some competing models , those items are still easily performed. The air box is easily accessible under the seat, and the filter even features a nylon, water repellent cover which helps it stay both clean and dry, as does the high air intake location. One of the handiest maintenance features is that both the dipstick and oil filter are easily accessible with no extra panels to get in the way or to remove first.
Rather than stick with the old bodywork design, Polaris gave the H. The large seat is both comfortable and soft enough for all day rides, and overall feel is roomy yet not so big that it feels intimidating. Down below, your feet ride on integrated foot pegs and floorboards — another Polaris innovation — and they generally do a good job, but sometimes we wish the pegs were slightly more aggressive or taller.
When they pack up with snow or mud, they can get a little slippery. Most of the time, they drain water away quickly, but we did notice a couple times water would splash through the engine compartment onto the opposite leg. Behind the seat is an enormous storage compartment, but under the front hood is one practically big enough for your bow!
Thankfully, Polaris was able to include it even though they raised the radiator for better protection. True to its Sportsman name, the H.
For towing any load, the Sportsman H. One of the most important features to buyers of any ATV is overall power and power delivery. While the Sportsman H. For most riders, it will be perfect. While power delivery plays a factor in overall ride quality, suspension action is equally important, and the Sportsman offers a very plush ride. In fact, the suspension is so soft that we believe that a slightly firmer dampening spec from the factory would work better in more aggressive conditions, and would take most of the suspension work off the springs.
Most riders will be very happy with the suspension just as it comes from the factory though. We especially like the stock Polaris tires. On the hard trails, they ride very well with predictable handling, and since the compound is a little softer, they are even able to grab a solid grip in the rocks. One feature we found curious though was engaging 4wd while in reverse.
When in reverse, it seems 4wd is disengaged, and the only way to keep it active is by holding the override button. While there may be a few newer competing models that really excel in one area or another, the Sportsman H. Skip to main content. You are here Home. Old Faithful. Written By:. Everyday Maintenance With every model we test, we are always concerned about regular maintenance. The Ride One of the most important features to buyers of any ATV is overall power and power delivery.
If you ever need to replace anything in front, you will probably need to know the build date. My has a sticker on the front hood right under the pod that has this on. From what I have read, all the fluids in your machine can be substituted with other brands.
The only exception would be the oil in the front gear housings that have the centralized AWD clutch. The people that have tried other oil, reported unreliable AWD engagement or disengagement and went back to Polaris.
I have never seen a service manual for a Your machine would be more like a model. If you check out some of the ATV specific forums, occasionally someone will post a link to a website where you can download a service manual.
However, since these are copywrited material, the link is usually deleted but not always. If you are lucky and want to go that route the info is out there. I can't really comment too much about where to get parts except there are a lot of aftermarket parts available for a lot less money than Polaris charges. A few years ago, I had to replace an O-ring in my gear selector box. No thank you. I took one to the local autoparts store and matched them up and got them both for less than a buck.
If you don't have one, you can go to the Polaris website and download an owners manual for free. You just need to create and account with them. Thanks Dreamer I appreciate the time you took to respond. Has anybody had any luck rebuilding axles with boot and CV Joint kits?
Any input as to how well aftermarket axles or parts work, especially in cold wx, as compared to OEM? I'm still looking for any cam experience if it is out there? The rattle stays as the engine is accelerated, and as it comes back down. I don't think it is a rod in that when I let off the throttle, and the engine "floats" the rattle or knock is still there.
Do you want to hazard a guess? By stays do you mean stays present or stays constant? As long as the engine is spinning a knock will likely keep knocking. You really aren't looking for a valvetrain or rotating assembly noise unless it varies with the RPM. I just rebuilt my Gorilla axles on my foreman and put new Gorilla boots on the outers. Cv's would have been fine but I lost the bands on the outers and found mud and grime.
Do yourself a favor and purchase a boot band tool for 30 bucks to get the bands good and tight for long lasting service. On your cam problem I don't know if Polaris or any 4-wheeler for that matter has a problem with this but I know that older cars are experencing problems with this. It appears that these letters really only designate the plastic color. Everything else seems to be the same within the model line. As for the metric or SAE, I would guess both. I was looking at my Polaris service manual and all the bolts on the motor are metric.
Dimensions are both inch and millimeters. Also, torque specs show ft. Most of the motors had a knock. It is most noticable at idle and it sounds like it is coming down by my left foot. This is just the oil pump. I bought my machine new in and it made that noise then.
I would be more concerned if I didn't hear it. I have no experience with axles so I can't help you there. Except from what I have read, Gorilla has a good reputation.
Big rattle The engine noise is significant. It is quite loud and quite distinct. As I increase RPM, the noise speeds up too. A couple of guys indicated that sometimes rod noise will diminish when you let back off the throttle.
This engine continues to make noise regardless if it is idling, accelerating, or decelerating. I guess I'd describe it as a very determined little guy inside with a solid but equally tiny ball peen hammer. You could call and I can put the phone next to the engine. I figured on axles, if rebuild kits worked as well as full axle replacements, I'd go to the expense of getting the boot band tool and whatever else I might need.
I'd rather invest in tools than parts. As for the model, again I think Dreamer nailed it. The color is Sonic Blue, and I think the last 2 letters match that.
As for Metric, I sure was hoping because I had to replace the flywheel nut and standard did not seem to work. I think 16mm x 1. I did pull the inop starter and did a quick clean and shine rebuild on it.
I was able to get it off without removing the belt cover, clutch, and backing plate. I think I did it without hurting anything, but it was tight. The lb winch was not working so I stuck a set of batter cables to it and a battery. Winch turns. So I have a solenoid or switch problem.
Pulled the 2 power lines from the switch to the solenoid, and that is good, so looks like the solenoid gets pulled. It only clicks one way, does nothing the other. Thought I'd pull the screws holding the caps and see what is going on there. Lots to do, so little time. It's me again. You have some concern about the cam. Could the noise you hear be valve noise? The valves are adjustable in the motors. It might be worthwhile to pull the valve cover and check them.
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